Trudge. Shandy. Rocks. Three of the things in conversation that found themselves being examined as we mountain biked round a quieter and remote part of the Lake District.
We passed through concentrated areas of people, but mostly spent two days seeing very few people. More birds than bodies. Starting off with a coffee and a gentle roll along a river towards Elterwater, we were soon winching ourselves up ‘Challenging Option’ to Little Langdale, up over to Tilburthwaite and onto a deceptively downhill trail to Coniston, heading into the first serious climb of the day.
Hopes of an ice cream after the 25% wall we (mostly) rode up, were dashed. Bravely we continued up to the top of Walna Scar road, being leap frogged by an e-bike, until they stopped, either due to a dead battery or alternative routes. Definitely not our crushing power and pace.
Water filled on the river crossing, we hurtled down towards Stephens Ground, with a swing to the north-west, and up until the boulder-strewn trail down to Seathwaite, which handily dropped us into The New Inn, for a pint of water, shandy and first lunch. Sorely tempted to sleep in the pub garden we forced lazy legs to move us towards the edge of Harter Fell, through Dunnerdale Forest – with a gamble on missing a potentially excellent bridleway paid off as from above it looked to be a rocky, boggy vague line across harvested woods.
The descent was a good fast flowing trail down, perhaps the highlight of the ride – a fast, contouring trail, with a few surprises to keep you focussed, it threw us out onto Jubilee Bridge at the base of Hardknott Pass, definitely the more enjoyable and fun way down.
Turn left and a short buzz along the road took us to the Woolpack Inn. Pretty much empty, save for two lads discussing the options for drinking and swimming. Loudly.
We were due for a pint, or two and some food. Shandy for hydration and sugar, then a pint and burger with chips.
Bike packing done right – use local amenities for food, supporting the local economy and carrying less. Plus there was beer.
Frustratingly to my legs, after eating a burger and chips, there was a pretty loose technical climb up to where we were considering staying for the night – Burnmoor Tarn. The interestingly names Maiden Castle was nowhere to be seen. This point was definitely the time when my legs, and the rest of me were keen to be sitting or laid down with some snacks, camp set up.
At the top, the Tarn glistened in the sun, with a surprisingly steady breeze. No areas for shelter, and we decided to move on, starting the downhill to Wasdale. A stream catches our eye and we see a wall next to it, wandering off the trail, it’s a little pocket out of the breeze, fairly flat, good views. Beers are put in the stream. Faff and consideration on pitching tarp and tent. Snacks and beer consumed as the sun drops behind the fells. We quickly cool and escape to the warmth of our sleeping bags.
A surprisingly good amount of sleep, several chunks of hours, waking up to adjust a slow slide down the hill, the sound of the stream, or a scream of some bird. Quite cold out and the most incredible star gazing at 2am call of nature. Back to another solid sleep until the dawn chorus with added sheep backing singers.
Another bright day, full blue sky over us. It’s cooler early, as we drop the last bit to the National Trust car park for the use of facilities. Vans a plenty as people Three Peak Challenge the early part of the day away. It feels a noticeable contrast to silence on a fell, to a bustling cafe and car park.
Looking up the valley, the main climb of the day starts. We stand outside St Olafs Church – the smallest in England. Surrounded by Yew trees, it feels like a sheltered and calm place, if perhaps from another time.
A farmer on a quad asks us where we are heading with ‘those things’ – ‘up’. He nods – we’re surprised he asked, but perhaps there are still parts where it’s unusual to see a mountain bike still. The fairly gentle and forgiving gradient slowly ramps up, the terrain moves from smooth grass and compact stone to loose rock, then scree and bedrock.
We trudge up, bikes on shoulders. After gaining a decent height, and having broken the brunt of the climb, we sit as three fighter jets scream over head. Blunt, angry other worldly machines, a contrast to the quietness of the bikes.
Sty Head stretcher box passed, Styhead Tarn below, moving up towards a water stop at Sprinkling Tarn, then up to Esk Hause, where we begin the first part of the descent home, down to Angle Tarn, from there, across behind Rossett Crag and round to the Stake Pass. We drop down the back of Mansey Pike, above Langdale Combe. The vague trail encouraging brave lines, but pedal strikes reminding of caution.
The fun ramps up into Stake Pass, a few boulders to carry over, then switchbacks to manoeuvre round, water bars always on the line, they ease up as you descend, making it feel faster and that you are improved. Several mistakes from a combination of tired bodies and heavy bags, we turn left over the footbridge, and roll home under the Langdale Pikes, through to Elterwater and the reward of a good proper lunch.
Bivi Kit
- Alpkit Bivi Bag
- Alpkit Sleeping Mat
- Rab Neutrino 400 sleeping bag
- McKinley Tarp
Clothing
- 7Mesh Shorts and Foundation padded boxers
- 7Mesh Top
- Bluegrass gloves
- Mavic DeeMax helmet
- 7Mesh Northwoods Windproof
- Five Ten Trailcross LT Shoes
- Patagonia Terrabone Trousers (sleeping)
- 7Mesh Polartec jacket (sleeping)
Bike
- Santa Cruz Hightower
- SLX & Hope drivetrain
- Continental Kryptotal 2.4 DH Casing tyres
- Hope Tech V4 Brakes
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